Old Mine vs Old European vs Portuguese Cut: A Guide to Antique-Style Moissanite
Antique-style cuts are having a moment. People who find a modern round brilliant a little too perfect are choosing stones with the softer, broader sparkle of cuts from the 1700s, 1800s and early 1900s. Moissanite is a natural fit for these cuts: it is hard enough for daily wear and its strong fire makes broad antique facets glow with color. This guide explains each cut we make, how they differ, and how to choose.
One note before we start: these are antique-style cuts. The moissanite is newly grown and newly cut, and every ring is newly made. You get the look of an heirloom without the wear and the price of a genuine antique.
A short timeline
- Rose cut (by the 1500s): a flat base and a domed top covered in triangular facets.
- Old mine cut (1700s to 1800s): a softly square, cushion-like brilliant cut by hand.
- Old European cut (late 1800s to early 1900s): the old mine's round successor.
- Modern round brilliant (from about 1919): proportions refined for maximum light return, the cut most rings use today.
The Portuguese, criss and Dutch marquise cuts are not antique in date, but they share the character people love in old cuts: broad or unusual facet patterns that sparkle differently from a modern brilliant.
Old mine cut
An old mine cut has a gently squared outline with rounded corners, a small table, a high crown, a deep pavilion and an open culet that shows as a small circle when you look down through the stone. It returns light in large, chunky flashes. If you like a cushion shape but want more character than a modern cushion, this is the cut for you. See our old mine cut moissanite rings.
Old European cut
The old European cut has the same antique facet style as the old mine, but a fully round outline. Its broad flashes are often described as a candle-lit look. In moissanite, those flashes show as patches of rainbow fire. It is the most popular antique cut for round engagement rings. See our old European cut moissanite rings.
Rose cut
A rose cut has no pointed pavilion, so it glows rather than sparkles and sits low on the finger. Because it is shallow, it looks wide for its weight, and it is less likely to snag on clothing. See our rose cut moissanite rings.
Portuguese cut
The Portuguese cut is round, like the old European, but it adds extra rows of facets above and below the girdle. Instead of a few broad flashes it shows a crowd of small, busy sparkles across the whole stone. The pattern shows best on larger stones, so it is usually chosen at 3 ct and above. See our Portuguese cut moissanite rings and our Portuguese cut guide.
Criss cut
A criss cut keeps the clean rectangular or cushion outline of a step cut but swaps the long parallel steps for a crisscross pattern. It sparkles far more than a classic emerald cut while keeping its architectural shape. See our criss cut moissanite rings.
Dutch marquise
A Dutch marquise is a long, angular version of the marquise, with straighter sides and bolder facets. It keeps the finger-lengthening shape of a marquise with a more antique, architectural feel. See our Dutch marquise moissanite rings.
Side by side
| Cut | Outline | How it sparkles | Best for |
|---|---|---|---|
| Old mine | Softly square | Large, chunky flashes | Cushion lovers who want antique character |
| Old European | Round | Broad, slow flashes | A round stone with vintage soul |
| Rose | Round, oval or pear | Soft glow | Low profile, everyday wear |
| Portuguese | Round | Many small, busy flashes | Large statement stones |
| Criss | Rectangle or cushion | Lively crisscross sparkle | Step-cut shape with more sparkle |
| Dutch marquise | Long, angular | Bold, broad facets | A marquise with antique edge |
How to choose
- Start with the outline. Round, square, long or pointed: pick the silhouette you love first.
- Then pick the sparkle. Broad and calm (old mine, old European), glowing (rose) or busy (Portuguese, criss).
- Judge size in millimetres. Antique cuts are often deep, so they can look smaller from the top than their weight suggests. Every listing gives the millimetre size, and our size chart helps you picture it.
- Choose the metal last. Yellow and rose gold lean warm and vintage; white gold and silver look cooler and brighter.
Settings that suit antique cuts
Milgrain edges, bezels, simple six-prong solitaires and vintage-style halos all complement antique cuts. Our antique-style rings are made to order in 925 sterling silver or 10K, 14K or 18K solid gold, in yellow, white or rose. Browse all of them in vintage and antique cut moissanite rings.
Quick answers
What is the difference between old mine and old European cut?
They share the same antique facet style. An old mine cut is softly square; an old European cut is round.
Do antique cuts sparkle less than modern cuts?
They sparkle differently: fewer, larger flashes instead of many small points. In moissanite those flashes are especially colorful.
Is a Portuguese cut an antique cut?
Not by date, but it is often grouped with antique-style cuts because its dense, unusual facet pattern stands apart from a modern brilliant.
Are your antique-cut rings real antiques?
No. Each ring is newly made to order with newly cut moissanite in an antique style.